Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Home, home in Brooklyn.

A few days late, but we wanted to let everyone know that we got home safe and sound - in case they haven't heard through some other means.

At the end of a trip, people tend to say "it's hard to sum it up in a few words." Not us. Here is our entire experience of Berlin in a few words:

  • 'Graffiti'

  • 'Punk-dogs'

  • 'Turkish'

  • 'Beer cocktails'

  • 'Bitte?'

Saturday, July 25, 2009

Getting ready to leave...

For the past few days, we've been wrapping things up here. Closing the bank account, mailing off some forms, mailing a box, getting some souvenirs, etc. We're feeling kind of sick (just a small head cold) and sleepy. And sort of done with Berlin for now. Not forever - it'll be good to come back some day... but for now, all we can think about is our friends and various kinds of foodstuffs we've been missing (pizza, bagels, pickles, Chinese food - all of which you can sort of get here, but only sort of).

Tonight we start cleaning the apartment/packing. Wish us luck, or write us encouragement, if silent wishing isn't your thing. It'll be great to see you all again... whenever exactly that is.

We'll probably have one or two more 'reflections on Berlin' posts at some point, and then that will wrap up this blog. For the time being.

Saturday, July 18, 2009

Campaign finance reform

I don't know why I was thinking about this. It has nothing to do with Germany.

Here's a simple policy change that would radically change the political scene in the US: any candidate who has proved her viability (either by being backed by a major party, or else through petition or something) can do as much fund-raising as she can, from any sources she wants. No limits at all.

The catch, though, is this: all the money raised by all the candidates goes into one pot, which is then divided evenly among the candidates. So it's worth trying to get campaign donations, since a candidate has to do so in order to get her message out, but she will also know that all the other candidates will be just as able to get their messages out. Which means that the focus will have to be on the content of the message.

Of course, this wouldn't stop candidates from doing ugly smear campaigns - but there might be more disincentive. For one, an opponent will always have equally good opportunity to respond. For another, this system would have more candidates in play in most races, and it would be much harder to win with a negative campaign when you have to separately attack multiple opponents. If a Democrat and a Republican were just attacking each other while a Green or Libertarian candidate was getting just as much face time, the third (or fourth) candidate could easily come out looking much better. And... this means that we'd break away from some of the worst features of the current system without trying to instate a massive public-financing system.

Ta da.

Now I should stop rambling about things I know absolutely nothing about and go to sleep. Naomi returns tomorrow for our last week here.

Here's a moderately cute picture of us from our trip out to Postdam a few weeks ago:

Friday, July 17, 2009

Some more Prague pictures...

While Naomi's in Scotland, I've been working on revising my planned job-talk paper (the one that went through the Nick and Karl centrifuge). It's going okay, I think. Partly as procrastination, I've been paying attention to my procrastination patterns. When I'm at my office at NYU, I can work with my email open, but not here. In fact, I've found that the only way I can get back to work after doing something on the internet is to close Firefox, go splash my face with water, and do some pushups. Anything less and my brain won't budge. Weird.

Here's more sights from Prague: one of the synagogues involved in the museum, another statue from the Charles Bridge, a decoration on one of the houses, and one of the buildings on the castle grounds.




Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Follow-up to earlier Vienna post: Strauss and Brahms

Here are the graves of Johann Strauss and Brahms, from the Vienna graveyard. This was by request from an anonymous reader, but I should have done it earlier - I'm much more likely to be listening to either Strauss or Brahams than to Mozart.

Prague

...I'm not sure how many blog posts about traveling it takes to get a tenure-track job, but I intend to find out. (I'm not procrastinating, I'm just resting my brain.)

We had almost exactly 24 hours in Prague. It's very, very touristy, but for a reason. One thing I was surprised by was that very few Czechs speak any German. In fact, we saw a couple grounds of German and Austrian tourists in a restaurant, and they all spoke English to the waiter. I guess it's partly a political thing.

Here are a few more choice pictures:


This is a view towards the castle and cathedral taken from the Charles bridge, an old bridge lined with statues.





In the center of the city. Nice lighting. Lots of Americans. The tower on the left has astronomical clock built into it, from the 1400's.




There was a surprising amount of Art Nouveau architecture in the center of the city.




We spent the morning at the Jewish museum, which actually spans a number of historic buildings. The Jewish community in Prague was (something in the museum said) at one point the largest Jewish community in Europe, having at least 11 synagogues. A graveyard is still there, where graves had to be layered on top of one another (with added layers of earth in between) because of the city's restrictions. When a new layer was added, the old grave stones were moved up. We couldn't take photos, but if you Google "prague jewish cemetery", you'll find enough to get an idea. The picture here is of the 'Old-New Synagogue,' which dates back to at least 1270. I know this is kind of cliché to say, but being inside felt like stepping back in time.

Vienna

Naomi's off in Scotland for a few days catching up with another college friend, so I'm briefly doing some solo blogging again. Only 12 days left until we return to the US. Berlin has been very good to me.... but it feels like time to go home.

Anyway, some pictures from Vienna. We saw a huge amount - far too much to put up here.


This is the cathedral in the center of the city, the Stephansdom. The big tower was supposed to be one of two, but then it ended up being one of one. Right next to it but underground (not shown) they discovered an old buried church, the original purpose of which is sort of unclear.




A little bit outside of the main city is a huge graveyard. It wasn't especially old (started in the 1700s, if I'm remembering right), but it had some highlights. Like Mozart's, Beethoven's and Schubert's graves, all together - shown above. The internet actually tells me that they're not quite sure where Mozart's body was, and that this was sort of a guess. Brahms was also just off to the side. Wow.



Later that same day, we went out to Schönbrunner Schlosspark, where the Hapsburg summer palace is. We walked around the grounds, but didn't go inside. It's a big palace:



They also had their very own fake Roman ruins:





Our last night, we decided to be young and hip and so went out. There was a movie of an opera being shown by the Rathaus (town hall), and lots of food stands set up near it. It was... sort of weird. But Naomi got a great picture of the Rathaus, and we had some very tasty dessert from a stand.


Vienna was really beautiful, and for me it was fantastic to see Naomi's old childhood haunts. Plus, there are some very sensible parts of the city's lifestyle. For instance, they have something like British tea-time - except that cake is almost mandatory, and it's coffee instead of tea.

We intend to go back.

Monday, July 13, 2009

Vienna and Prague - 3 pictures

Yesterday we came back to Berlin after a few days in Vienna and Prague. Both were wonderful - Vienna especially, since Naomi still knew some people there from her childhood. We'll say more later, but here are some highlights:


Hühnerschnitzel in Vienna. We had it twice - once in a Heuriger near where Naomi used to live, and once at a famous/extra-touristy restaurant in the inner city called 'Figlmüller' (this picture is from the latter). Both were good. The former was better.



We had a day of Art Nouveau, involving a lot of Klimt and Schiele. This building had a leafy dome, and a mural by Klimt inside. Really sweet.



Prague was very different - it took us a little while to understand why people get so excited about it, but we came around (a cheap, delicious meal helped). The castle/palace on the hill overlooking the town had about 5 different architectural styles. This is the cathedral that the castle surrounds. Notice the big tower, which starts gothic, but doesn't stay that way as it goes up. The mural next to it is of the dead rising from their graves to be judged.

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Quick Vienna update from Colin

Yesterday, I took a train from Berlin to Vienna, where I'm going to meet Naomi (who's been in Italy). It was about 10 hours, but first-class was only about ten Euros extra, so I ended up without neighbors (my seat was alone on its side of the aisle) and a huge picture window. The views were beautiful, especially the stretch between Dresden and Prague - the train followed the Elbe river ('Labe' in Czech) through a fairly steep valley.

I got to Vienna around 10:30pm, and walked to my hostel. I got a bed in a 6-person room. It was 'fine,' as my brother would say. A little too hot, but pretty quiet. I had an over-priced hostel breakfast in the morning. Actually, it wouldn't have been overpriced if I had taken it up on its offer of "all you can eat," but I learned in Frankfurt that starting off the day by eating all the hostel Musli you can eat makes the rest of the day feel like you're a clump of soggy oats.

I walked then over to the hostel with I'm supposed to meet Naomi - about an hour walking. Some first impressions: people seem to eat schnitzel here the way the Germans eat dönner kebab (though they also eat dönner here). The city looks more like Paris than Berlin, at least, from what I remember of my 3 hours in Paris last year. It's older, both in population and in buildings, and so there's a lot more of "so-and-so lived here" stuff.

My main plan for our time here is to eat cake and ice-cream. Naomi can make the call on the rest.

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Huh.

I wasn't thinking about this, but the last post ended up working as some sort of "in which countries are people looking at my blog?" thing. On my personal website, I have Google Analytics set up, which tells me which general areas people who look at the site come from (unless they live in a one-person city, there's no way to identify them, so this is only moderately creepy - if it's any consolation, most websites have something like this now).

Anyway, after I linked to my site from this blog, I unexpectedly got a huge rise in the number of people according to Analytics. For instance, it's had more than 20 hits the past two days, and 10 hits from Brazil yesterday (on a normal day, the site gets between 1 and 4 visits). I don't mind popularity, and I've heard great things about Brazil, but... what??? Are these real people? Spam bots? Does anyone know?

(And... we're back in the US in only 20 days!)

Saturday, July 4, 2009

More temporary bachelorhood

First a question and a picture. The question is this: what do you think of the photos on my NYU page, and personal webpage? More specifically, do they make you feel like you'd want to hire me to be in a philosophy department? Any feedback is welcome.

And here's the picture (from the side of the memorial church from two posts ago):



In other (fascinating) news, I got the paper down to 29 pages. It got less painful as I went along - partly because I realized that I should write a quick paper addressing this one view that has become 'hip' recently (interpreting Kant as holding that the self is an activity). That's actually the view I originally thought I was going to defend... and it's good that I didn't, because last September a new book came out arguing for that at length.

Speaking of work - last Wednesday night Nick and Karl (Stang and Schafer) let me pitch one of my possible job talks to them. It was super, super helpful. I've never had that amount of relentless, punchy feedback in one sitting before. The two of them together, with enough added coffee, are like a Kant centrifuge - kind of violent, but just so that all the junk floats to the top and can be skimmed off. Of course, now I realize that the paper needs to be completely rewritten. But that's okay.

Friday, July 3, 2009

Temporary bachelor life

For the past few days I've been on my own in the apartment, and I have a few more days before I go meet Naomi in Vienna. My main goal for this lonesome stretch was to get a new version of my writing sample together, both shortening it down and incorporating the various comments I got when I presented it last month. The revision's going slowly, but it's getting done. The thing's 34 pages now (leaving out the 'works cited' section'), down from 39, and I'll see if I can trim off another 4.

One thing that's funny about doing revisions like this is that, after going through about a dozen versions, there is some reason for every aspect of the paper - everything in there has some sort of justification. So cutting it down is an internal struggle at every step. I think that's why it's taking me so long. I remember the same thing happening to a number of other NYU people who were getting ready to go on the market; they were getting lots of feedback, and spending lots of times working on drafts, but ended up making almost no real changes in the last few months.

On a different note: I was so excited to find peanut butter at one of the nearby supermarkets that I forgot to get olive oil, which was my main reason for going.

Thursday, July 2, 2009

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche (more old photos)

(Naomi's still away for the next few days, so this is just Colin.)

One place we've visited a few times is this church. I thought I'd post a couple more photos associated with it. It's a really striking site - the bombed-out old church and a new church built right along side (the new church has the cross-less statue of Jesus against the blue glass wall). World War-era destruction just isn't preserved like this in most of Berlin, understandably enough.

Here's another outside view of the church, and of a part of the ceiling inside:





Inside the newer part of the church is this charcoal drawing:


Maybe other people had heard of it, but I hadn't. It's called the 'Stalingrad Madonna,' done by a German pastor during the battle of Stalingrad in 1942 who was captured in the battle and died in a POW camp two years later. There are supposedly copies of the drawing in the UK and in Russia. The words on the right mean 'Light, Life and Love.' It is a Christian image (and the words are from the Christian Bible), but none of that is essential to the effectiveness of the image itself. The Pastor (Kurt Rueber) wrote that his aim was to represent the feeling of safety.

Tuesday, June 30, 2009

older Charlottenburg pictures, and an update

The main sight in Charlottenburg is the old palace. Since we didn't put up pictures of it in our earlier post, here are some now. The palace pictures were taken by Naomi, and the fuzzy duck picture by Colin:





Naomi is off in Italy for a week or so, so this will briefly be a one-person blog again. My plan is to cram work in this week - the main goal being to put together a new (shorter) version of the writing sample paper. As a means of kicking that off, I went out last night with a small Kant posse. It was fun, though I ended up staying up too late - not because of partying, but because when I got home I ended up watching this long-ish video about the extreme right in Israel. Somehow, that didn't make for a peaceful sleep.

Saturday, June 27, 2009

Potsdam (pretty palaces)

On Thursday, we went out to Potsdam with Naomi's visiting friend from college. There are two main palaces there, both mainly associated with Frederick the Great (though other Friedrichs lived in both). The first was a summer palace, called Schloss Sanssouci. It has a terraces vineyard leading up to it. Voltaire stayed there for a couple years. From below, it looks like this:


While the guidebooks highlight Sanssouci, we found the 'Neues Palais' much more impressive. Particularly the interior, which included a gigantic grotto room lined with seashells and polished stones. This is the outside, with its industrial-looking dome:




We stopped for lunch here, in the 'Dragon House.' One of the best meals we've eaten since being in Germany. Nothing is tastier than fresh dragon.




This is part of the Orangerie. We took a tour in German through the central apartments, each of which had a different semi-precious stone as a theme. We had to wear slippers over our shoes inside the building. After the tour, we went up to the top of the tower (every orangerie has to have a tower, obviously). But this is a view from the ground:




The Neues Palais was surrounded by statues. And they're kind of cool - each has a unique expression. This one reminded us of someone...

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Kant Strasse

As mentioned below, we walked down Kant Strasse with Hyunseop last week. It's sort of just another street. But Colin felt that compelled by reason to take some cute pictures - since how often do you get to see a garage named after Kant?






Colin liked this one intersection in particular, and made Hyunseop stand next to the sign. The lighting's not great - it's hard to focus on Leibniz and Kant when you have this bright modern city all around you (or something like that).

We're going to stop apologizing for the infrequent posts...

...even though we still feel bad about them.

Last week, Hyunseop visited us. He did some sight-seeing on his own, but we spent a day out in Charlottenburg. We went to the Schloss (castle/palace) first. Guidebooks were consulted:



After wandering around in the garden, we went to a nearby semi-touristy Brauhaus (brewery). Hyunseop wanted to try some real German food, which is actually hard to find in most of Berlin. He took a picture - his authentic pork knuckle is in the foreground:


Afterwards, we took a longish walk (down Kantstr., for which there will be more pictures in a bit) over to the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial church. It's very interesting, and might require its own post. Inside the new chapel (next to the remnants of the bombed-out old church) is this Jesus statue. He's not on a cross - just flying or floating.

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Pretty pictures! (from Frankfurt, part 2)

Here are a whole bunch of pictures (two blog posts worth!) -- to quench your thirst.

View across the Main river (which cuts through the city).



Some contrasts of 'old' and new construction. About 80% of the city was destroyed during WWII by Allied bombs. Why aren't the Germans angry at us (US)? Have they really gotten over it?



The Frankfurter Dom (the main cathedral) - it was very nice. And, interestingly, the different sections were built in different eras, which makes it seem a bit like a hodgepodge inside.



Our train trip back was about twice as long (a total of 8.5 hours), but a third as cheap as the way to Frankfurt - we took 4 different regional trains (changing in small towns) and got to see some lovely rolling hills, forests, local citizens, fields, decrepit buildings, rivers, loud college-aged cellphone users, and...a rainbow! It wasn't as bad as we thought it would be. The Germans trains are actually always on time.

Pretty pictures! (from Frankfurt, part 1)


Colin looking skeptically at an 'old' but ornate bar in the touristy old part of Sachsenhausen (i.e. what the guidebook said was the 'hip' neighborhood of Frankfurt).




The Römerberg -- 14th and 15th century buildings that were rebuilt in the 1980s as a tourist trap. And there were indeed lots of tourists. It was quaint, though. We sat here for a while eating ice cream and getting in photos being taken by a Japanese tourist group.




Us sitting by the Main river at night. Nothing funny about that. (We felt obliged to have a picture of us in here somewhere.)




Frankfurt has a stock exchange, and a lot of money. The guidebook says it is the business capital of Germany. They use statues like this to make the point clear, in case all the skyscrapers with bank names didn't make it obvious.




In the main Frankfurt university building, they have elevators that move continuously. You hop on and hop off. I don't know what happens if you fail to hop on at the right moment.

Colin's professional development update

...which doesn't mean that this update is going to be professional quality.

Yesterday, I gave the last of three presentations that were packed into 8 days. The first was on Monday of last week (in Horstmann's Kant colloquium here in Berlin) on the metaphysics of the self paper. The second was last Friday in Frankfurt on the composition paper (both of these about Kant). And the third was back here in Berlin in the Leibniz Research Project colloquium on the Spinoza/flashbacks paper. All together, that's three of the four papers I'm planning on using on the market next year.

(Naomi has pointed out to me that I keep saying 'next year', even though this really means 'in a few months.' The 'next year' in question is one that starts in August. This coming August - the one that's only forty or fifty days away. Having admitted that, I'm going to go back to self-deception.)

Overall, I think the presentations went well - there were some tricky, surprising questions in each, but nothing too brutal (unless my self-deceptive powers have evolved to a new level). Whew. Not that that's not going to stop me from being a paranoid wreck next year.

Naomi and I will get some pictures up soon. We have a lot of new ones. Life's just been busy. But we're both really looking forward to seeing you all again at the end of summer....

Also: it looks like I have to work up to at least a 'fair reading level' of Latin before November. If anyone else is interested in forming a Latin-cramming group (probably centered around Spinoza's Ethics), let me know.

Saturday, June 13, 2009

Quick, frank Frankfurt update

Colin: Frankfurt is much less cool than Berlin (though I met some very nice people at my presentation yesterday). Prices are higher, the average age is higher, and even the temperature was higher... though that last one was kind of nice, actually, until we got sunburned. We'll have some pictures soon.

Naomi: It's a much prettier city, objectively speaking, but I think we've decided we still prefer Berlin. We are now comparing everything to Berlin instead of New York, which is interesting (we'll give you more of these comparisons, along with illustrations, if you stay tuned...). ;)

Thursday, June 11, 2009

Off to Frankfurt

Just a quick post - we leave for Frankfurt tomorrow morning, taking the ICE (super-fast) train. We'll do a day or so of sightseeing and then come back for a week with one of Colin's fellow NYU philosophy grad students, followed by a week with one of Naomi's friends from college.

We were introduced to some German hip-hop the other day, and it was... very grammatical. And didn't have much cursing. Weird. One person explained this by saying that the Germans don't romanticize lower-class/street life.

Another observation: for a people who won't sell you peanut butter anywhere except in a novelty section of a department store, the Germans eat a lot of peanuts, in different forms. In the form of peanut-curry ice cream, for instance (pretty tasty, actually) and peanut-flavored puffs (both of which we ate today).

Sunday, June 7, 2009

Busy, busy

Sorry there hasn't been an update for a while! We've been busy eating chocolate:


A literal translation: Black Men Chocolate, For Gentlemen.

We were a little confused and intrigued, but last night Max Barkhausen told us that it shouldn't be parsed as 'Chocolate, of Black Men,' but as 'Gentlemen's-Chocolate, of the Black variety' (something the grammar should have cued us onto). Apparently, 'Herren Schokolade' is just a way of saying that the chocolate is all fancy. Or classy. Or something.



We also had our first joint conversation partner meeting with one of Colin's German conversation partners. She took us to a book store that is a government-subsidized 'political education' center. Apparently, after WWII, the government never wanted an uninformed population again, so they provide a lot of material on various issues. There were loads of books about German history (especially about Jewish-German history and the DDR), a number about environmental issues, a lot about world cultures, and a lot of translated stuff (including Paul Krugman and Amartya Sen). Until five years ago, all the books were just free, but now cost between 2 and 6 Euros. We couldn't think of anything similar in the US, or even the possibility of something like this working.



Colin: My uncle Jim came and visited us for a day. It was great - a quick walk by the main tourist sights, followed by hours of cafe-hopping and eating. Here's an especially good picture of me:



Naomi: We also took a quick look at the longest stretch of the Wall that was kept up and decorated by various artists right after the fall. It's fairly close to where we live. It has turned into a big tourist destination, but it was still interesting to see that they have turned old East German cars into a fun tourist trip (the "Trabi" safari):


An interestingly decorated part of the wall:




We had our first dinner party! Colin baked a beautiful loaf of bread:


Then we went out to a hip party and watched Germans dance and play foosball ('fuβball'?).

Colin: Next week will be similarly busy. We're going out to Frankfurt on Friday, where I'll present something. I'm also presenting something in the colloquium here tomorrow. Both about Kant. Which I think means I'm practicing for the job market.